| "C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when
"safety catches" were invented. The pin connected to
one side of the brooch is threaded through a layer of the garment
and rests in a "C" shaped catch on the other side of
the brooch. The "C" had no mechanism to hold the pin
in place and so the pins were usually designed to be long enough
to extend far enough beyond the end of the brooch to weave back
into the garment for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends
to be what most people think of when they think of the word "chain".
It is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large
ships to a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small
dome", a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small
dome in a round, oval, rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape
without any facets. This style is commonly used with opaque to
translucent stones such as opal, moonstone, jade and turquoise.
Some transparent stones such as emeralds, amethyst and garnet,
are also sometimes fashioned as cabochons. An almandine (garnet)
cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often
used in traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish
topaz. The supply of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated
Brazilian amethyst is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the
fifth most abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the
earth's crust, and is a basic component of most animals and plants.
It burns with a brilliant light and occurs naturally in limestone,
gypsum, and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that
comes in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal
crystals range from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite
exhibits a double refraction effect (when you look through the
crystal, singel items are doubled). Calcite has a hardness of
3 (most forms), a specific gravity of about 2.7, a refractive
index of 1.49 and 1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard
size, i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated
cabochons or faceted stones when the design requires two or more
stones of the same exact size or when a design will be duplicated
many times as in manufactured jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby
at all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone
composed of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used
for Zuni fetish carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon
cut stones). Rainbow calsilica was only recently found in Mexico
or Northern South America (it's origin remains mysterious). Some
people theorize that this stone formed as a result of the runoff
of mining or oil-drilling chemicals, and has only formed in the
last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away
leaving the design in relief, typically against a contrasting
background. Cameos are often made of shell and coral, although
hard stone cameos such as agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable.
Cameos have been carved from the Hellenistic period, and ancient
motifs such as the goddess Athena or a Baccante, (follower of
Bacchus), were popular cameo subjects in Victorian times through
the 1930's. The opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French)
is a "jewel within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject
carved in the cameo (usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece
of jewelry (like a tiny diamond necklace with a stone embedded
in the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed.
Camphor glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and
used for jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and
other pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds
are precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon;
they are one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness
of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417
- 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire
to achieve a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct."
and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for
gemstones, (as opposed to karat with a "K", which is
a measure of the purity of a gold alloy). One carat is equal to
1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest
hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a
point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points,
or 1/10 of a carat. Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most
often referred to by point designations. A one carat round diamond
of average proportions is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note
that this relationship of weight and size is different for each
family of stones. For example ruby and sapphire are both heavier
than diamond (technically, they have a higher specific gravity,
so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is smaller in size than a one carat
diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and
many inorganic compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting
ability to bond with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are
not used for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive
wheels. They were once thought to have been formed as a result
of a comet impact 2 billion years ago, but this is no longer thought
to be true. The largest diamond ever found was a carbonardo that
weighed over half a kilogram. Carbonadoes are found in Bahia,
Brazil, South America. Unlike other diamonds, carbonadoes are
not found in a crystallized form - they are found in irregular
or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes have a hardness of 10 and a
specific gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3. Diamonds have a very hard
polycrystalline carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon
spots are a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds
showing as black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced
many beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals.
Carnegie (nee Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna,
Austria but moved to New York City, NY, USA around the turn of
the century. She later opened a chain of high-priced boutiques
and founded Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie jewelry is collected
by many people and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie, of HC
within a diamond and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first
used in January, 1919. Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe
buckles, and jeweled cases, which were sold with the marks "Pooped
Pussy Cat" and "Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded
red and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's
health and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India,
Siberia, and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose
work revived the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made
pieces had intricate workmanship including the ancient Etruscan
art of granulation and carved gemstones. Castellani's sons carried
on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring
metal, plaster, or some other material that sets over time into
the mold. See Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process,
and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc.,
New York, NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by
Clifford Furst in 1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation
from about 1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was
located in Providence, Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through
Sears, Roebuck and Co., JC Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores.
Catamore won a landmark court case against IBM in 1975 for breech
of promise in a computer services contract. Catamore was bought
by a London firm in 1981. Catamore pieces are marked CATAMORE
or John Grant Designs (this mark was first used in 1970). Jewelry
by Catamore was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked 1/20
12kgf.) or steling silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones,
cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen
from the side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow
to gray-green stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems
to move slightly as the stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut
as cabochons to maximize the distinctive pupil-like effect. Most
cat's eye chrysoberyl is found in Brazil. Cat's eye chrysoberyl
has a hardness of 8.5. This stone is sometimes enhanced by irradiation
(this process improves the color and accentuates the stone's asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer
who produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in
the late 1940's (after World War 2) and her company is still in
operation, now headed by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein.
The company is located in Malverne, Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning
"in the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume
jewelry made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity"
is owned by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania,
which makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler
during the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast
metals, enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first
synthesized around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled,
folded, perforated, ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but
cannot be injected. Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily
if exposed to moisture. jewelry made of celluloid was often set
with rhinestones. Hair combs and other dresser articles are still
often made of celluloid today. Also called French ivory, Ivoride,
Ivorine, Ivorite, and Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland,
and Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their
jewelry and stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches
with a long, hinged pin, called penannular brooches, date from
ancient times. The earliest-known piece of Celtic jewelry is the
Hunterston brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the
styles of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological
artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent
center piece in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the
outside edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and
as the tube is spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the
molten metal into the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and
recognized laboratory that defines the physical characteristics
and quality rating of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or
necklaces. Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly,
Byzantine, Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone,
Marina, Mariner, Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco,
Serpentine, Singapore, and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian,
cat's eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster.
When chalcedony is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged
in differently colored layers, it is called agate; and if by reason
of the thickness, color, and arrangement of the layers it is suitable
for being carved into cameos, it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color
of C2-C3). Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia
(in the Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen
content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas
of a piece of jewelry that have been carved away specifically
for this purpose before firing. The glass powder melts filling
the carved areas with solid glass.
"C" catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before 1900 or so when
"safety catches" were invented. The pin connected to
one side of the brooch is threaded through a layer of the garment
and rests in a "C" shaped catch on the other side of
the brooch. The "C" had no mechanism to hold the pin
in place and so the pins were usually designed to be long enough
to extend far enough beyond the end of the brooch to weave back
into the garment for security.
C-OX
A green cubic zirconia (CZ) stone.
Cable Chain
A chain made of round linked rings of uniform size. This tends
to be what most people think of when they think of the word "chain".
It is the same style of chain as the cable used to anchor large
ships to a dock.
Cabochon
From the French "caboche", meaning "knob/small
dome", a cabochon is a stone cut into the shape of a small
dome in a round, oval, rectangle, triangle, or teardrop shape
without any facets. This style is commonly used with opaque to
translucent stones such as opal, moonstone, jade and turquoise.
Some transparent stones such as emeralds, amethyst and garnet,
are also sometimes fashioned as cabochons. An almandine (garnet)
cabochon is called a "carbuncle".
Cairngorm
Cairngorm is a yellow-brown type of smoky quartz that is often
used in traditional Celtic jewelry. Cairngorm is not Scottish
topaz. The supply of cairngorm is virtually exhausted, so heat-treated
Brazilian amethyst is used as a substitute in Scottish jewelry.
Calcium
A silvery-white, moderately hard metallic element which is the
fifth most abundant element comprising approximately 3% of the
earth's crust, and is a basic component of most animals and plants.
It burns with a brilliant light and occurs naturally in limestone,
gypsum, and fluorite.
Calcite
Calcite (Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that
comes in a wide variety of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal
crystals range from translucent to transparent. Transparent calcite
exhibits a double refraction effect (when you look through the
crystal, singel items are doubled). Calcite has a hardness of
3 (most forms), a specific gravity of about 2.7, a refractive
index of 1.49 and 1.66, and a white streak.
Calibrated
A calibrated stone is one that has been cut exactly to a standard
size, i.e. 5 mm, 10 mm x 14 mm. Jewelers often purchase calibrated
cabochons or faceted stones when the design requires two or more
stones of the same exact size or when a design will be duplicated
many times as in manufactured jewelry.
Calibré Cut
Small stones cut in an oblong shape and set close together.
California ruby
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby
at all).
Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is a newly-found, multi-colored, layered stone
composed of calcium and silica. This stone has been recently used
for Zuni fetish carvings and in some jewelry (beads and cabochon
cut stones). Rainbow calsilica was only recently found in Mexico
or Northern South America (it's origin remains mysterious). Some
people theorize that this stone formed as a result of the runoff
of mining or oil-drilling chemicals, and has only formed in the
last 30 to 50 years (but this is uncertain).
Cameo
A type of jewelry in which the stone around a design is cut away
leaving the design in relief, typically against a contrasting
background. Cameos are often made of shell and coral, although
hard stone cameos such as agate, onyx, and sardonyx are more valuable.
Cameos have been carved from the Hellenistic period, and ancient
motifs such as the goddess Athena or a Baccante, (follower of
Bacchus), were popular cameo subjects in Victorian times through
the 1930's. The opposite of a cameo is called "Intaglio".
Cameo habille
A cameo habille (meaning "dressed cameo" in French)
is a "jewel within a jewel," a cameo in which the subject
carved in the cameo (usually a woman) is wearing a miniature piece
of jewelry (like a tiny diamond necklace with a stone embedded
in the cameo).
Camphor glass
Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed.
Camphor glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and
used for jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and
other pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.
Canary diamonds
Canary diamonds are diamonds that have a deep yellow color. Diamonds
are precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed carbon;
they are one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds have a hardness
of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive index of 2.417
- 2.419.
Cannetille
A wirework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire
to achieve a delicate scrolling effect.
Cape Amethyst
A form of Amethyst layered or striped with milky quartz.
Cape Ruby
A Cape ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby at all).
Carat
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Abbreviated "ct."
and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for
gemstones, (as opposed to karat with a "K", which is
a measure of the purity of a gold alloy). One carat is equal to
1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest
hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a
point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points,
or 1/10 of a carat. Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most
often referred to by point designations. A one carat round diamond
of average proportions is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note
that this relationship of weight and size is different for each
family of stones. For example ruby and sapphire are both heavier
than diamond (technically, they have a higher specific gravity,
so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is smaller in size than a one carat
diamond.)
Carbon
A non-metallic element that occurs in all organic compounds and
many inorganic compounds. Carbon is combustible and has the interesting
ability to bond with itself, as well as with many other elements.
Carbonado
A carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are
not used for jewels, but for items like drilling bits and abrasive
wheels. They were once thought to have been formed as a result
of a comet impact 2 billion years ago, but this is no longer thought
to be true. The largest diamond ever found was a carbonardo that
weighed over half a kilogram. Carbonadoes are found in Bahia,
Brazil, South America. Unlike other diamonds, carbonadoes are
not found in a crystallized form - they are found in irregular
or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes have a hardness of 10 and a
specific gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3. Diamonds have a very hard
polycrystalline carbon structure.
Carbon Spots
Diamonds are carbon that has been compressed over time. Carbon
spots are a kind of flaw, or "inclusion", found in diamonds
showing as black spots inside the clear diamond.
Carbonate
A substance treated with carbon dioxide, such as limestone.
Carbuncle
An almandine (garnet) cabochon.
Carnegie
Hattie Carnegie was a clothing and jewelry designer who produced
many beautiful costume jewelry pieces, including many figurals.
Carnegie (nee Henrietta Kanengeiser) was born in 1886 in Vienna,
Austria but moved to New York City, NY, USA around the turn of
the century. She later opened a chain of high-priced boutiques
and founded Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Carnegie jewelry is collected
by many people and is marked Carnegie, Hattie Carnegie, of HC
within a diamond and a half oval. The Carnegie mark was first
used in January, 1919. Carnegie also designed hair jewelry, shoe
buckles, and jeweled cases, which were sold with the marks "Pooped
Pussy Cat" and "Pooped Poodle."
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded
red and orange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's
health and love life. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India,
Siberia, and Germany.
Castellani, Fortunato
Fortunato Castellani (1793-1865) was an Italian jewelry whose
work revived the early Etruscan style of jewelry. His beautifully-made
pieces had intricate workmanship including the ancient Etruscan
art of granulation and carved gemstones. Castellani's sons carried
on his work.
Casting
A means of reproducing an object by making a mold of it and pouring
metal, plaster, or some other material that sets over time into
the mold. See Centrifugal casting, Electrotype, Lost wax process,
and sand casting.
Castlecliff
Castlecliff was a mark used by the Castlecliff Jewelry, Inc.,
New York, NY, USA. This costume jewelry company was founded by
Clifford Furst in 1945 and was in business nutil the 1970's.
Catalin
See Bakelite.
Catamore
Catamore Enterprises was a costume jewelry company in operation
from about 1942 to 1981. This large, family-owned business was
located in Providence, Rhode Island. Their jewelry was sold through
Sears, Roebuck and Co., JC Penney Co., Zale Corp., and other stores.
Catamore won a landmark court case against IBM in 1975 for breech
of promise in a computer services contract. Catamore was bought
by a London firm in 1981. Catamore pieces are marked CATAMORE
or John Grant Designs (this mark was first used in 1970). Jewelry
by Catamore was often gold filled in 12 karat gold (marked 1/20
12kgf.) or steling silver. Many were decorated with rhinestones,
cameos, or onyx.
Cathedral Setting
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches when seen
from the side (like the arches of a cathedral).
Cat's eye
Cat's eye (chatoyant chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow
to gray-green stone with a bright, pupil-like slit that seems
to move slightly as the stone is moved. Most Cat's eye is cut
as cabochons to maximize the distinctive pupil-like effect. Most
cat's eye chrysoberyl is found in Brazil. Cat's eye chrysoberyl
has a hardness of 8.5. This stone is sometimes enhanced by irradiation
(this process improves the color and accentuates the stone's asterism).
Caviness, Alice
Alice Caviness (-1983) was a clothing and costume jewelry designer
who produced high-quality pieces. She began producing pieces in
the late 1940's (after World War 2) and her company is still in
operation, now headed by Caviness' business partner, Lois Stein.
The company is located in Malverne, Long Island, New York.
CE
Common Era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini, meaning
"in the year of our Lord".
Celebrity
Celebrity is a mark of generally low- to medium-quality costume
jewelry made by a New York company. The trademark "Celebrity"
is owned by the Celebrity Jewelry Company of Philadelphia, Pennnsylvania,
which makes jewelry of gold and silver, with precious stones.
Cell Enameling
See Cloisonné.
Cellini, Benvenuto
Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) was the pre-eminent Italian jeweler
during the renaissance. Cellini's intricate works utilized beautifully-cast
metals, enamel, table-cut gems, and pearls
Celluloid
A plastic derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, first
synthesized around 1870 as a synthetic ivory. It can be cut, rolled,
folded, perforated, ironed, turned, or embossed when heated, but
cannot be injected. Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily
if exposed to moisture. jewelry made of celluloid was often set
with rhinestones. Hair combs and other dresser articles are still
often made of celluloid today. Also called French ivory, Ivoride,
Ivorine, Ivorite, and Pyralin
Celtic jewelry
Celtic jewelry was made by the Celts in Ireland, Wales, Scotland,
and Brittany. The Celts used bronze, silver and gold in their
jewelry and stones like cairngorm and amethyst. Circular brooches
with a long, hinged pin, called penannular brooches, date from
ancient times. The earliest-known piece of Celtic jewelry is the
Hunterston brooch from A.D. 700
Celtic Revival
Jewelry made during the mid-nineteenth century reflective of the
styles of jewelry used in early Ireland based on archaeological
artifacts.
Center Stone
Usually a diamond, (or other gemstone), that is the prominent
center piece in a ring setting.
Centrifugal Casting
A method of casting jewelry in which molds are attached to the
outside edge of hollow tube. Metal is poured into the tube and
as the tube is spun at high speed centrifugal force pulls the
molten metal into the molds.
Certification
A grading report given to a precious stone by a reputable and
recognized laboratory that defines the physical characteristics
and quality rating of a gem. See Assay and IGI
CFW
CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls.
Chain
A strand of linked loops, rings, or beads used for bracelets or
necklaces. Popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box, Butterfly,
Byzantine, Cable, Cuban, Curb, Figaro, Figogucci, Foxtail, Herringbone,
Marina, Mariner, Mesh, Omega, Panther link, Rolo, Rope, San Marco,
Serpentine, Singapore, and Snake. (See individual listings.)
Chalcedony
A family of colored quartz stones including agate, onyx, carnelian,
cat's eye, and jasper that commonly have a milky or waxlike luster.
When chalcedony is variegated with with spots or figures, or arranged
in differently colored layers, it is called agate; and if by reason
of the thickness, color, and arrangement of the layers it is suitable
for being carved into cameos, it is called onyx.
Champagne Diamond
A champagne diamond is a pinkish brown diamond (having a color
of C2-C3). Most champagne diamonds are mined in Western Australia
(in the Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen
content
Champlevé
A type of enameling in which powdered glass is placed in areas
of a piece of jewelry that have been carved away specifically
for this purpose before firing. The glass powder melts filling
the carved areas with solid glass.
Chandelier Earring
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called
a "Drop Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted
plastic or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of
a piece of jewelry. Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of
pearl and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small
stones, usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes,
are set side by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting
methods the stones are not secured individually with prongs and
there is no metal visible between the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets
are made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished
with gemstones and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry
made by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York.
Many Charel pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated
metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a
charm bracelet until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978
in the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This
is the only known location for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can
be mottled with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant
variety in a bright deep purple, is usually considered more valuable
than the non-chatoyant variety although both are used in jewelry
and compliment a number of other stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects
by making indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer.
The opposite of chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be
utilitarian or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials
like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced
by Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting)
is one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around
a metal ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon
stones, like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes
in other stones, like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected
in thin bands within the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon
to maximize the lustrous effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects
light, such as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the
French "chatoyer", meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes,
from the French "chat" meaning "cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production
of some jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately,
in the actual production of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight
and save in the use of gold. The tubes are hard to bend when they
are empty, so a metal rod is inserted before bending, facilitating
the bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting"
is reflective of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of
lines in a shallow inverted "V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal),
moonstone, or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous,
greenish-yellow gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally
only as a salt, as in sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify
water, as a disinfectant and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture
of many important compounds including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty
and resistant to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is
for its compounds, as potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc.,
which are brilliantly colored and are used dyeing and calico printing.
The common modern usage is for very shiny metal objects like chrome
bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a
chromium-rich variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium
magnesium silicate). Chrome diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6
and a specific gravity of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant
to corrosion and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel
alloys and the production of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant
decorative platings, and as a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone
for its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque
blue to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually
cut as a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found
embedded in rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile,
and the Congo. Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments
since the time of the ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically
in 1968. Its hardness varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used
as a gem. Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to
a deep olive green and an oily shine. It is common in certain
volcanic rocks and meteorites. Mystics have claimed that this
lustrous green stone drives away evil and has special healing
properties. The name chrysolite has been used in the past for
yellow varieties of tourmaline and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony
(microcrystalline quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green
color. Chrysoprase is porous and translucent. It is usually cut
as a cabichon, and has been used since ancient times. Chrysoprase
has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase
is mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.), Brazil, and the
western USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian
jade," but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation
chrysoprase is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel
Ciner, originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began
producing high-end costume jewelry with very good quality stones
(including Swarovski rhinestones) and 18-carat gold plated finishes.
Their "pearls" are specially made by coating glass beads
with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces have a multitude
of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above has jade-colored
stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are
known for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate
detail. The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained
as a jeweler in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922.
He made jewelry in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach,
California, in 1957. The company went out of business in 1970,
but has been reopened by the Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly.
The vintage silver lion pin above is by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from
cinnamon to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to
transparent. It is often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2
- 2.5 (very soft) and a specific gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called
"essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting
metal in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax
is entombed in clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing
a hollow mold. The mold is then filled with molten metal. The
clay is broken off and the cast metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine
is often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety
of quartz, citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and
a brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz.
Most citrine comes from South America. In ancient times, citrine
was revered as a gift of the sun and believed to be a powerful
antidote to a viper's venom. Citrine is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is
named after Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time,
which overlooks Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings
called "Fede" or "Faith rings", which date
from Roman times and were popular in the Middle Ages throughout
Europe. Whereas "Fede" rings have only two clasped hands,
symbolizing faith, trust, or "plighted troth", Claddagh
rings have two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted
by a crown, symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand
with the heart turned outward indicates that your heart is yet
unoccupied. Worn on the right hand with the heart turned inward
indicates that love is being considered. Worn on the left hand
the with the heart turned inward shows everyone that your heart
is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest
clarity contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's
crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier.
The clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I
(inclusions visible to the naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch
strap. Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw,
and Spring ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually
engraved with the name of the school, the year of graduation,
and a gem featuring one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made
by the Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA.
The relatively rare Claudette marks were first used in December,
1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that
surround it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent
bath. Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent.
Clean the jewelry with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then
rinse it under warm running water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free
cloth. Avoid using brushes, which can scratch gold. Never boil
gold, and avoid using ammonia, toothpaste, a powder cleanser or
scouring pads. Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions, cosmetics
and perm solutions, since these products may discolor or dissolve
gold alloys. gemstones rarely need cleaning unless they become
dirty from hand lotion, hairspray or other products. They can
be cleaned using a soft cloth with mild soap and water, but rinse
well. If you are using a silver or gold jewelry dip solution,
most are safe for gemstones, but read the label to make sure.
Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls while applying cosmetics,
hair sprays or perfume. It's best not to wear pearl strands while
bathing, because water can weaken the string. Wipe pearl strands
with a damp cloth after each use. Do not clean cultured pearls
with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide
in crystal form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its
crystal structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip,
such as a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at
one end to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring
that the ear be pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of
enameling in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered
onto a metal plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing.
The glass powder melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not
exposed (the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas
that can found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central
gemstone is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal
beads and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of
smaller stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set
around a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry,
such as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones
popular during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of
C7). Most cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the
Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls
worn on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European
silver pieces are coin silver and are marked "800",
indicating that 800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace
with flowing ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel
setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones.
A collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the
stone. One edge of the metal is crimped over the edges of the
stone and the other edge is soldered to the metal of the jewelry,
holding the stone in place. This closed setting sometimes also
had metal claws along the outside to hold the stone even more
securely (the claws were not used much after the 1200's and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color"
actually refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond
acts like a prism letting light pass through, refracting back
to the human eye, into a rainbow of color. The color scale breaks
up the subtlety and various grades of a diamond’s color
from purest white to yellow and brown. The letters D through Z
are used to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless
and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or
“Fancy” diamonds are simply referring to diamonds
that are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white,
and green shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on
earring to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved
on the inside of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such
as a battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction
by using the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart
into two or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a
necklace may be disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside
of an egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly
shell that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is
the most valued color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch
shell is often used to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads
and cameos. Conch has a hardness of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a
reference to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho
Belt." From the Spanish word "concha", meaning
"shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable
evidence of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but
not enough to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence
of wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous
very fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously
discolored or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other
repairs, or other evidence of hard wear considered to be damage.
Damage of any kind is separately detailed in the item description,
and generally items with damage appear at very reduced prices
in the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including
no discolored stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in
virtually the same condition as it was when it left the manufacturer.
Considering that vintage jewelry is usually 50 or more years old,
and that it likely has been worn, it is obviously quite rare to
find a piece that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small
pieces of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins,
necklaces and other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced
good-quality pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals
that show a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines
through the stone. When the light is on the same side as the viewer,
the iridescence is not readily seen (this quality makes it difficult
to design jewelry using these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz
means "against the light." Unlike other opals, contra
luz opals are usually faceted (rather than cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of
a ball. The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal
which occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins
or nuggets that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found
in various ores such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and
malachite. When alloyed with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed
with zinc it forms brass. Copper is an excellent conductor of
heat and electricity and is widely used for electrical wiring,
as well as water piping and corrosion-resistant parts. When in
moist conditions, a greenish layer forms on the outside. It has
been extracted and used for thousands of years. The name is derived
from the Greek "kupros" (the island of Cyprus), called
"Cyprian brass", and known by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble),
secreted in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies
under the ocean. Coral can be found all over the world, but the
bulk of coral used in jewelry making has always come from the
waters off Sardinia and the coast of Sicily, in the Mediterranean.
Coral comes in colors from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon
and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making, coral
is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left
in its natural branch-like form and just polished. During the
mid-Victorian era large cameo brooches of coral finely carved
in high-relief floral sprays or faces were popular. It used to
be thought that coral protected the wearer, so it was a traditional
gift to children. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, real
coral will effervesce if touched with acid. Imitation coral is
made from glass, porcelain, or plastic and will not effervesce
when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral
polyps secrete a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry
making. Coral ranges in color from pale pink (called angelskin
coral) to orange to red to white to black. The most valued colors
are deep red (called noble coral) and pink. In jewelry making,
coral is either carved into beads, cameos, or other forms, or
is left in its natural branch-like form and just polished. It
used to be thought that coral protected the wearer, so it was
a traditional gift to children. Coral has a hardness of about
3.5 and a specific gravity of 2.6 to 2.7. Since it is composed
of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce if touched with acid.
Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic.
Corallium rubrum
A valuable red coral introduced to the Indians by the Spanish.
Cord belt
A thick belt worn on the waist, usually with a caftan.
Cornelian
Cornelian (also called carnelian and carneole) is a reddish form
of chalcedony (a type of quartz). This translucent stone has a
waxy luster. The best carnelian is from India. Most commercial
carnelian is really stained chalcedony. Carnelian has a hardness
of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.61.
Cornucopia
The cornucopia is a symbol of plenty and is used sometimes in
jewelry. The Trifari cornucopia pin/clip pictured above is gold
colored. It has a double-pronged fastening mechanism that can
be used either as a fur clip or as a pin.
Coro
Coro, Inc. is the largest costume jewelry company. It was founded
by Cohn and Rosenberger early in 1919, producing reasonably-priced
jewelry. Many Coro pieces are avidly collected, including their
duettes, sterling pieces, and many intricate older pieces.
Coro Duettes
Coro duettes are patented sets of jewelry made by the Coro company.
Each "duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base;
they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Coronet
A small or inferior type of crown worn by a person of high rank
but lower than a sovereign.
Coronet setting
See Arcade Setting.
Corundum
The name of a family of stones composed of crystallized aluminum
and oxygen that includes rubies and sapphires. The color of these
stones depends on the oxides present in their composition. Corundum
is one of the hardest minerals second only to diamonds rating
a 9 on the Mohs scale. See alumina.
Coventry
Sarah Coventry is a company that produced mid-range costume jewelry.
The Sarah Coventry jewelry company was founded in Newark, New
Jersey, USA by Charles H. Stuart (who earlier founded the Emmons
jewelry company) in November, 1948. He named the company after
his his grand-daughter. Sarah Coventry jewelry was sold at home
fashion shows until 1984, when the company was sold. Both women's
and men's jewelry was produced under the marks Sarah Coventry
(first used in May, 1949), SC (first used in Oct. 1953), Sarah
Cov (first used in Jan. 1960). Sarah Coventry jewelry came with
a "Lifetime Guarantee" which read, "May be sent
back for repair to: P.O. Box 7899, Warwick, RI 02887. Please include
handling charge of 1.50."
Cowrie Shell
The highly polished and brightly marked shells of tropical marine
gastropods of the genus Cypraea, some of which are used as currency
in the South Pacific and Africa. Small cowrie shells are commonly
used as beads in jewelry.
Crimp Bead
Small soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure clasps
onto the ends of cords or chains.
Crown
The upper part of a cut diamond or stone above the girdle.
Crown Glass
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some fake rhinestones
are made from crown glass.
Crown Height
A measurement of the distance from the girdle to the table on
a diamond or other cut stone.
Crystal
A fine, high-quality glass invented in 17th century England. In
order to be considered crystal rather than simple glass, the product
must contain at least 10% lead oxide. The lead oxide is attributed
to providing the glass with extraordinary qualities of brilliance,
sound and a suitable texture for cutting or engraving. Some of
the finest crystal ever made is from Baccarat in France (est.
1816) and Waterford in Ireland (est. 1729).
Crystal (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10% lead oxide.
Lead added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock
crystal. The process of making lead crystal was discovered by
the English glassmaker George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is
colored by adding various metallic oxides to the melt.
Crystal (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular structure.
Some crystals include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
Crystal Habit
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular crystal has.
The most common crystal habits are:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like emerald, tourmaline
Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond
Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like garnet
Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz
Platy - occurring in very thin plates, like hematite
Crystal Systems
Crystals are divided into seven crystal systems, according to
their optical properties (how light bends within the crystal),
plane of symmetry, axis of symmetry, center of symmetry, crystallographic
axis. Within each of the systems, the cyrstals can mineralize
into different crystal habits (form). The seven crystal systems
are: cubic systems, tetragonal systems, hexagonal systems, trigonal
systems, orthorhombic systems, monoclinic systems, and triclinic
systems. For more information on crystal systems, click here.
Crystalline
A substance composed of crystals or resembling crystal in transparency,
structure and outline.
Crystallize
To cause a material to form crystals or to assume both the internal
structure and external form of a crystal.
Cuban Link Chain
A standard cable chain with oval shaped links that are each decorated
with a twisting pattern resembling rope.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
A clear, hard, mass-produced gemstone cut to resemble a diamond.
The mineral baddeleyite has the same chemical composition, but
to become a CZ the mineral must be heated to almost 5000 degrees
Fahrenheit and have an oxide stabilizer such as yttrium or calcium
added to keep it from reverting back to its original form when
cooled. Almost all the rough CZ's in the market are composed of
zirconium oxide and yttrium oxide, both of which are naturally
white but combine to form a brilliant clear crystal. Like diamonds,
the best cubic zirconia gems are colorless but colored forms are
also manufactured. Vivid green CZ is sometimes referred to as
C-OX, and CZ in numerous colors is frequently sold under various
tradenames, such as the yellow CZ from Ceylon called "jargon".
Cubic zirconia gemstones are cut in the same fashion as diamonds,
and like diamonds the size of the gemstone is usually indicated
by its weight in carats. The stone can also be measured in millimeter
diameter size. Because the cubic zirconia stone is so dense and
solid, it outweighs a diamond of the same millimeter size, weighing
1.7 times more than a diamond of the same millimeter diameter.
It is also not as hard as a diamond rating only an 8 on the Mohs
scale. Natural skin oils, soap, and dirt cause a film that dulls
the beauty and luster of the cubic zirconia, just as it dulls
real diamonds. The best cleaning agent for cubic zirconia is liquid
dishwashing detergent, but other gem and jewelry cleaners can
also be used.
Cubic Zirconium
Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive,
lab-produced gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia
was developed in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A wide rigid bangle with a narrow opening on one side to allow
the the wrist to pass through.
Cuff link
A decorative fastener worn to close the cuff of a shirt that provides
holes on the cuff for the cufflink rather than closing with buttons.
Culet
The tiny flat facet on the tip of the pavilion of a cut gemstone.
Cullinan Diamond
The Cullinan diamond (also called the Star of Africa) is the largest
diamond yet found, weighing 3,106 carats (roughly 1.3 pounds)
in its rough form. It was mined at the Premier Mine in South Africa
in 1905. This enormous gem was named for the chairman of the company
that owned the mine. It was given to King Edward VII of England
for his birthday in 1907. The diamond was cut (by Joseph J. Asscher
of Amsterdam) into many stones, including the Cullinan I (530
carats, pendelique-brilliant shaped, the largest cut diamond in
the world), the Cullinan II (317 carats, cushion shaped), Cullinan
III (94 carats, pendelique shaped), Cullinan IV (63 carats, square-brilliant
shaped), and many other smaller stones.
Cultured Pearl
A means of duplicating the organic process of natural pearl creation
invented by Kokichi Mikimoto circa 1893. A tiny irritant like
a bead, grain of sand, or a piece of mother of pearl from another
mollusk can be inserted into the opening of an oyster or mollusk.
This irritant becomes the nucleus of a pearl once that mollusk
secretes a lustrous substance (nacre) to cover the foreign body.
An oyster or mollusk can take between five to seven years to secrete
enough nacre to produce a jewelry quality pearl.
Cupid's darts
Cupid's Darts is another name for rutilated quartz.
Curb Link Chain
A chain composed of oval-shaped links that are twisted and often
diamond-cut so they lie flat.
Cushion Cut
A stone that is cut to look like a square or rectangle with rounded
edges. The cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible
light refraction.
Cut
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading, "cut" refers to
the shape and style of a polished gem. How a diamond is cut has
a lot to do with the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that
is cut either too shallow or too deep will not be as brilliant
as a properly cut diamond.
Cut Beads
Cut beads are glass beads that have been faceted. This process
makes the bead reflect and refract more light.
Cut glass
Any glass whose surface has been cut into facets, grooves and
depressions by a large, rotating wheel. Wheel cutting glass was
developed in the 8th century BC, but the technique of faceting
wasn't perfected until the 18th century in England. Although cutting
glass is a costly and difficult process, the brilliant effects
are extraordinary!
Cut Steel
Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge number of facets and
then riveted to a plate of steel (or other metal). It was widely
used in jewelry during the late 18th century, including shoe buckles,
buttons, bracelet, necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, and as
a setting for cameos. Early in the 19th century, cut steel quality
diminished and was stamped out in strips instead of being individually
cut and riveted.
Cut Stones
Common cuts include the brilliant cut, old European cut, emerald
cut, radiant cut, rose cut, step cut, pendelique cut. Mixed cuts
in which the style of the facets above and below the girdle are
different. Other, more unusual cuts, are know as fantasy cuts
(like the heart cut).
CZ
See cubic zirconia.
An earring with a drop suspended like a chandelier. Also called
a "Drop Earring" or "Dangle Earring".
Channel Inlay
A design similar to enameling in which stones, rather than melted
plastic or glass, are cut to shape and set into the recesses of
a piece of jewelry. Commonly seen with jewelry using mother of
pearl and turquoise.
Channel Set
A style of setting in which a number of uniformly sized small
stones, usually of the round cut, princess cut or baguette shapes,
are set side by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting
methods the stones are not secured individually with prongs and
there is no metal visible between the stones.
Chaplet
A garland, wreath, or ornamented band worn around the head. Chaplets
are made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished
with gemstones and pearls.
Charel
Charel is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry
made by the Charel Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York.
Many Charel pieces have pastel-colored plastic stones on plated
metal.
Charm
A pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, earring or necklace.
Charm Bracelet
A chain link bracelet with charms attached to it. (It's not a
charm bracelet until it has charms attached.)
Charm Ring
A ring with a charm attached to the ring band.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978
in the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This
is the only known location for this rare mineral.
It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can
be mottled with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant
variety in a bright deep purple, is usually considered more valuable
than the non-chatoyant variety although both are used in jewelry
and compliment a number of other stones.
Chasing
A method of decorating the front, (or outside), of metal objects
by making indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer.
The opposite of chasing is repoussé.
Chatelaine
French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is an ornamental
chain or pin worn at a woman's waist from which dangle keys, trinkets,
scissors, needle cases, pencils, purse, etc. Chatelaines may be
utilitarian or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials
like silver.
Chatham synthetic rubies
Chatham synthetic rubies (laboratory-created rubies) were introduced
by Carroll Chatham in 1959.
Chaton
A cone shaped rhinestone or crystal.
Chaton setting
A châton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting)
is one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around
a metal ring.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in some cabochon
stones, like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and sometimes
in other stones, like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected
in thin bands within the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon
to maximize the lustrous effect.
Chatoyant
A stone having a changeable luster due to the way it reflects
light, such as the cat's-eye or tiger's eye gemstones. From the
French "chatoyer", meaning to shimmer like cats' eyes,
from the French "chat" meaning "cat".
Chenier
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the production
of some jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately,
in the actual production of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight
and save in the use of gold. The tubes are hard to bend when they
are empty, so a metal rod is inserted before bending, facilitating
the bending.
Chevron setting
A chevron is a design found in heraldry resembling a shallow inverted
"V". In jewelry design, a "chevron setting"
is reflective of the heraldic chevron in that it is made up of
lines in a shallow inverted "V" pattern.
Chinese opal
Chinese opal is a misnomer for pearl opal (a type of organic opal),
moonstone, or white chalcedony
Chloride
Any compound containing a chlorine atom.
Chlorine
An abundant element which, when isolated, appears as a poisonous,
greenish-yellow gas with a disagreeable odor. It occurs naturally
only as a salt, as in sea-water. Chlorine is used widely to purify
water, as a disinfectant and bleaching agent, and in the manufacture
of many important compounds including chloroform and carbon tetrachloride.
Choker
A close fitting necklace worn tight around the neck like a collar.
Chrome
A hard, brittle, grayish white metal, fusible with difficulty
and resistant to corrosion. Its chief commercial importance is
for its compounds, as potassium chromate, lead chromate, etc.,
which are brilliantly colored and are used dyeing and calico printing.
The common modern usage is for very shiny metal objects like chrome
bumpers, etc.
Chrome diopside
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It is a
chromium-rich variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium
magnesium silicate). Chrome diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6
and a specific gravity of 3.3 to 3.6.
Chromium
A lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element, resistant
to corrosion and tarnishing. It is used in the hardening of steel
alloys and the production of stainless steels, in corrosion-resistant
decorative platings, and as a pigment in glass.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a stopwatch mechanism on a watch; it can be started,
stopped and reset independently from the watch.
Chrysoberyl
A rare, hard, yellow-green mineral consisting of alumina and glucina,
(beryllium aluminate), in crystal form. It is popular as a gemstone
for its chatoyant qualities.
Chrysocolla
Chrysocolla (meaning "golden lime" in Greek) is an opaque
blue to blue-green mineral sometimes used in jewelry. It is usually
cut as a cabochon. Chrysocolla (hydrated copper silicate) is found
embedded in rock crystal in copper mines in the USA, Russia, Chile,
and the Congo. Although Chrysocolla has been used in ornaments
since the time of the ancient Greeks, it was only described mineralogically
in 1968. Its hardness varies from 2 to 4.
Chrysolite
A mineral composed of silica, magnesia, and iron sometimes used
as a gem. Chrysolite ranges in color from a light pea green to
a deep olive green and an oily shine. It is common in certain
volcanic rocks and meteorites. Mystics have claimed that this
lustrous green stone drives away evil and has special healing
properties. The name chrysolite has been used in the past for
yellow varieties of tourmaline and topaz.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral chalcedony
(microcrystalline quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an apple-green
color. Chrysoprase is porous and translucent. It is usually cut
as a cabichon, and has been used since ancient times. Chrysoprase
has a hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase
is mined in Australia, Russia (the Ural Mtns.), Brazil, and the
western USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called "Australian
jade," but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation
chrysoprase is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
Cigar band
A very wide band-style ring.
Ciner
Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel
Ciner, originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began
producing high-end costume jewelry with very good quality stones
(including Swarovski rhinestones) and 18-carat gold plated finishes.
Their "pearls" are specially made by coating glass beads
with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces have a multitude
of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above has jade-colored
stones and pavé rhinestones.
Cini
Cini produces jewelry made of silver and gold-plated silver (vermeil),
some with colored rhinestones (in later pieces). Cini pieces are
known for their beautiful workmanship, artistic designs, and intricate
detail. The company was formed by Guglielmo Cini, who was trained
as a jeweler in Florence, Italy, and emigrated to the USA in 1922.
He made jewelry in Boston, Massachusetts but moved to Laguna Beach,
California, in 1957. The company went out of business in 1970,
but has been reopened by the Cini grandaughters, Amy and Molly.
The vintage silver lion pin above is by Cini.
Cinnabar
Cinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from
cinnamon to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to
transparent. It is often carved. Cinnabar has a hardness of 2
- 2.5 (very soft) and a specific gravity of 8.1 (quite heavy).
Cinnamon stone
A brown or yellowish-brown variety of garnet more properly called
"essonite".
Cire perdu
Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a process of casting
metal in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax
is entombed in clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing
a hollow mold. The mold is then filled with molten metal. The
clay is broken off and the cast metal remains.
Citrine
Named after the French word for lemon, "citron". Citrine
is often incorrectly called quartz topaz or citrine topaz. A variety
of quartz, citrine is found in light yellow, amber-brown, and
a brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz.
Most citrine comes from South America. In ancient times, citrine
was revered as a gift of the sun and believed to be a powerful
antidote to a viper's venom. Citrine is the birthstone for November.
Claddagh Ring
First crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, it is
named after Claddagh, the fishing village he lived in at the time,
which overlooks Galway Bay. The ring belongs to a class of rings
called "Fede" or "Faith rings", which date
from Roman times and were popular in the Middle Ages throughout
Europe. Whereas "Fede" rings have only two clasped hands,
symbolizing faith, trust, or "plighted troth", Claddagh
rings have two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love, surmounted
by a crown, symbolizing loyalty. The ring worn on the right hand
with the heart turned outward indicates that your heart is yet
unoccupied. Worn on the right hand with the heart turned inward
indicates that love is being considered. Worn on the left hand
the with the heart turned inward shows everyone that your heart
is truly spoken for.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Gemstones with the highest
clarity contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's
crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier.
The clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I
(inclusions visible to the naked eye).
Clasp
A device used to connect two ends of a necklace, bracelet or watch
strap. Popular types of clasps include: Barrel, box, Lobster claw,
and Spring ring clasps. (See individual listings).
Class Ring
A ring that commemorates graduating from high school. It is usually
engraved with the name of the school, the year of graduation,
and a gem featuring one of the school's colors.
Claudette
Claudette (and C. Claudette) are marks on costume jewelry made
by the Premier Jewelry Company, Inc. of New York, New York, USA.
The relatively rare Claudette marks were first used in December,
1945.
Claw
A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
Claw Setting
A way of securing a stone in its mount using small prongs that
surround it.
Cleaning Jewelry
The safest and easiest way to clean most jewelry is with a detergent
bath. Swish together warm water and any mild liquid detergent.
Clean the jewelry with a soft brush while it's in the suds, then
rinse it under warm running water. Pat it dry with a soft, lint-free
cloth. Avoid using brushes, which can scratch gold. Never boil
gold, and avoid using ammonia, toothpaste, a powder cleanser or
scouring pads. Keep gold away from chlorine, lotions, cosmetics
and perm solutions, since these products may discolor or dissolve
gold alloys. gemstones rarely need cleaning unless they become
dirty from hand lotion, hairspray or other products. They can
be cleaned using a soft cloth with mild soap and water, but rinse
well. If you are using a silver or gold jewelry dip solution,
most are safe for gemstones, but read the label to make sure.
Do not boil gemstones. Do not wear pearls while applying cosmetics,
hair sprays or perfume. It's best not to wear pearl strands while
bathing, because water can weaken the string. Wipe pearl strands
with a damp cloth after each use. Do not clean cultured pearls
with chemicals, abrasives or jewelry cleaner.
Clear Quartz
A colorless transparent mineral consisting of silicon dioxide
in crystal form. See Quartz.
Cleavage
Cleavage is the tendency which a stone has to fracture along its
crystal structure.
Clip-on
A piece of jewelry designed to be attached by means of a clip,
such as a clip-back earring.
Clip-back Earring
A hinged ring with a pad, called a "comfort back", at
one end to secure the earring to the earlobe without requiring
that the ear be pierced.
Cloisonné
Occasionally called "cell enameling", it is a type of
enameling in which compartments made of thin strips of metal soldered
onto a metal plate are filled with powdered glass prior to firing.
The glass powder melts filling the compartments with solid glass.
Closed Setting
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not
exposed (the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
Cloud
A form of inclusion, “clouds” are white milky areas
that can found in the diamond.
Cluster
Several stones grouped together in a jewelry setting.
Cluster Brooch
A brooch developed in the 14th century in which a large central
gemstone is surrounded by a cluster of smaller gemstones and pearls.
Cluster Earring
A decorative earring made up of a cluster of glass and/or metal
beads and stones
Cluster Ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a number of
smaller stones.
Cluster setting
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls are set
around a larger stone.
Clutch
A device that is slid along a post to secure a piece of jewelry,
such as the earring back of a stud for pierced ears.
Cocktail Ring
A large oversized ring set with precious or semiprecious stones
popular during the 1940s and 1950s.
Cognac Diamond
A cognac diamond is a cognac-brown diamond (having a color of
C7). Most cognac diamonds are mined in Western Australia (in the
Argyle Mine). The color is produced by a their low nitrogen content.
Coiffe
A net made of gold or silver threads, decorated with gems or pearls
worn on the head.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy that is 80% silver and 20% copper. Many European
silver pieces are coin silver and are marked "800",
indicating that 800 parts out of 1000 are silver.
Coin-style edge
see Milgrain edge.
Collar
A necklace worn close around the neck. See also "choker".
Collarette
A collarette (also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace
with flowing ornaments at the front.
Collet
The ring of metal that surrounds and secures the stone in a bezel
setting.
Collet Setting
A collet setting is a very early method of setting gemstones.
A collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the
stone. One edge of the metal is crimped over the edges of the
stone and the other edge is soldered to the metal of the jewelry,
holding the stone in place. This closed setting sometimes also
had metal claws along the outside to hold the stone even more
securely (the claws were not used much after the 1200's and 1300's.
Color
One of the 4 C s of diamond grading, the term "color"
actually refers to the absence of color in a diamond. A diamond
acts like a prism letting light pass through, refracting back
to the human eye, into a rainbow of color. The color scale breaks
up the subtlety and various grades of a diamond’s color
from purest white to yellow and brown. The letters D through Z
are used to designate a diamonds color with D being colorless
and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.
Colored Diamond
Diamondss can be found in a full spectrum of colors. Colored or
“Fancy” diamonds are simply referring to diamonds
that are not white.
Colored Gold
An alloy of gold and other metals producing rose, yellow, white,
and green shades.
Comfort back
A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip end of a clip-on
earring to cushion the earlobe.
Comfort Fit
A ring that adds to the comfort of the wearer by being curved
on the inside of the shank.
Commemorative Wares
Items used to commemorate an important or historical event, such
as a battle, coronation, or wedding.
Compass Ring
A rotating ring that can be used to determine compass direction
by using the position of the sun and the time of day.
Composite Suite
A composite suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart
into two or more pieces which can also be worn. For example, a
necklace may be disassembled into two bracelets.
Concave
Concave simply means "curving inward", like the inside
of an egg shell. The opposite of Convex.
Conch
Conch is a marine animal (a mollusk) with a large, beautiful pearly
shell that varies in color, but if often white or pink (pink is
the most valued color). Queen conch has a large, pink shell. Conch
shell is often used to make jewelry. Conch is made into beads
and cameos. Conch has a hardness of 2.85 (it is relatively soft).
Concha
One of the ovals of a segmented silver belt or bridle. Also a
reference to the belt itself. Now commonly called a "Concho
Belt." From the Spanish word "concha", meaning
"shell".
Concho
See Concha.
Condition , Excellent
A piece of jewelry in Excellent Condition will show reasonable
evidence of wear, and have a fine patina.
Condition, Fine
A piece of jewelry in Fine Condition may show slight wear, but
not enough to have developed a patina.
Condition, Good
A piece of jewelry in Good Condition will show substantial evidence
of wear. It will have a noticeable patina which may include numerous
very fine pits or lines. It will not have cracks, chips, obviously
discolored or poorly replaced stones, evidence of glue or other
repairs, or other evidence of hard wear considered to be damage.
Damage of any kind is separately detailed in the item description,
and generally items with damage appear at very reduced prices
in the Bargain section.
Condition, Mint
A piece of jewelry having no signs of wear whatsoever, including
no discolored stones. A piece that is in Mint Condition is in
virtually the same condition as it was when it left the manufacturer.
Considering that vintage jewelry is usually 50 or more years old,
and that it likely has been worn, it is obviously quite rare to
find a piece that is truly in Mint Condition.
Confetti lucite
Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small
pieces of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins,
necklaces and other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
Continenta
Continental was a Canadian costume jewelry company that produced
good-quality pieces, usually studded with colorful rhinestones.
Contra luz opal
Contra luz (also spelled contraluz) opals are transparent opals
that show a brilliant play of iridescence only when light shines
through the stone. When the light is on the same side as the viewer,
the iridescence is not readily seen (this quality makes it difficult
to design jewelry using these beautiful gemstones). Contra luz
means "against the light." Unlike other opals, contra
luz opals are usually faceted (rather than cabochoned).
Convex
Simply means "curving outward", like the surface of
a ball. The opposite of Concave.
Copper
A common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal
which occurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins
or nuggets that must be mined out of other rocks. It is also found
in various ores such as chalcopyrite, chalcocite, cuprite, and
malachite. When alloyed with tin it forms bronze, and when alloyed
with zinc it forms brass. Copper is an excellent conductor of
heat and electricity and is widely used for electrical wiring,
as well as water piping and corrosion-resistant parts. When in
moist conditions, a greenish layer forms on the outside. It has
been extracted and used for thousands of years. The name is derived
from the Greek "kupros" (the island of Cyprus), called
"Cyprian brass", and known by the Romans as 'cuprum.'
Coral
Coral is a form of calcium carbonate, (like aragonite or marble),
secreted in long chains by coral polyps, who live in colonies
under the ocean. Coral can be found all over the world, but the
bulk of coral used in jewelry making has always come from the
waters off Sardinia and the coast of Sicily, in the Mediterranean.
Coral comes in colors from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon
and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making, coral
is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left
in its natural branch-like form and just polished. During the
mid-Victorian era large cameo brooches of coral finely carved
in high-relief floral sprays or faces were popular. It used to
be thought that coral protected the wearer, so it was a traditional
gift to children. Since it is composed of calcium carbonate, real
coral will effervesce if touched with acid. Imitation coral is
made from glass, porcelain, or plastic and will not effervesce
when touched with acid.
Coral
Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral
polyps secrete a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry
making. Coral ranges in color from pale pink (called angelskin
coral) to orange to red to white to black. The most valued colors
are deep red (called noble coral) and pink. In jewelry making,
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